Today we pointed “The Landy” down the driveway and bid farewell to Sydney for a couple of weeks.
Making our way west over the Blue Mountains via the Bell’s Line in a modern four-wheel drive vehicle we did give some thought to the early explorers’ who headed this way, journeying on foot, horseback and bullock dray.
Our drive took us through the larger rural towns of Bathurst and Orange before diverting from the usual route west, the Great Western Highway, to travel through the township of Parkes and the smaller rural towns of Trundle and Tottenham.
Situated 55-kilometres north of Parkes, Trundle is at the centre of a wheat, sheep and cattle farming area. Of interest is the Trundle Hotel, a majestic building in the town’s main street, which is National Estate, listed and has the longest verandah in New South Wales, coming in at a long 87.6 metres. The town’s main street is also the widest in New South Wales measuring 60 metres.
Leaving Trundle behind we passed through the closest town to the geographical centre in New South Wales, Tottenham. We varied our route to visit the geographical centre, which is located 34 kilometres west of the town along the Cockies Road.
Tottenham is also at the centre of large scale agriculture cropping and sheep grazing and boosts a large hotel, The Tottenham Hotel, which overlooks the main street.
We arrived at Nyngan to a tranquil camp next to the Bogan River at the Riverside Van Park.
In 1835, explorer, Major Mitchell was the first European to document a journey along the Bogan River, describing the area around Nyngan as ‘a long pond, with many birds, ducks, and brolgas’. The local aboriginal word ‘Nyingan’ is said to mean ‘long pond of water’. In 1882 the town’s site was surveyed and buildings from an earlier settlement at Canonba 30- kilometres away were moved to the present Nyngan Township.
Click here to find out where Baz, “The Landy” is today…
We’re excited, ahead of us is two weeks of soaking up the beauty of a red-ochre coloured landscape, an ancient landscape that stretches to the horizon, where it kisses a never-ending blue sky…
Sometimes it is simply impossible to capture it in a photograph, but we will be trying, and of course part of the attraction of touring the Great Southern Land is the characters you meet along the way; they are the heart and soul of the Australian Outback…
The Landy is packed full of Janet’s wine, TomO has claimed a seat in the front, Janet and Fay (me mum!) are strapped into the back.
And don’t forget to check in over the next couple of weeks to see what we are up to.
Bearing in mind, one of the attractions of the Outback is the inability to communicate, at times. Shoosh, that is the story I run with my boss at work, so we might be out of range every so often 😉
The Birdsville Pub is synonymous with the Australian Outback and has been the watering hole for many a weary traveller, both in days gone by and still today.
And over many years of outback travel we have often gone out of our way to quench our thirst in the front bar of the hotel.
A bar where you can hear the different accents of the many foreign tourists who come to wonder at the splendour of Australia’s Outback mixed amongst the laughter and our unique Aussie Drawl.
TomO is very accustomed to the Birdsville Pub.
Oh, but don’t worry, he is yet to quench his thirst with a beer, perhaps that will come in time, but he has made many friends over the years in the front bar. Plotting adventures with a local boy, playing snooker with the many visiting pilots, and even fallen in love with the policeman’s daughter, at the tender age of three!
And he tells me he is looking forward to this visit…
Whilst it may seem I have disappeared from the face of the earth, rest assure, I am alive and kicking, still larger than life, head-down and exercising…
And I have been preparing the troops, and yes, that would be Janet and TomO, for an upcoming adventure into the Australian Outback.
In about one week’s time we will be pointing ourselves westward towards the Flinders Ranges and the Birdsville Track.
In fact, this will be a sentimental journey, of sorts, for us as Brian, my father, longed to take a trip along the “Track” in the footsteps of Tom Kruse, The Outback Mailman.
Many may recall that Brian passed away last year and so as a tribute to him we are making the journey accompanied by my mother, Fay, the love of Dad’s life for near on 60 years! But he’ll be with us….for sure!
Our trip along the Birdsville Track will take us in the footsteps of the famous Australian Outback Mailman, Tom Kruse.
Tom delivered mail to the many cattle stations along the track in a “Blitz Truck” arriving at Birdsville, in far Western Queensland, before loading up for the return trip to Marree. His story is one of human endurance, courage, and perseverance. Despite facing considerable challenges each and every day out on the Track, Tom got the mail through, a lifeline to those who lived and worked in the area…
Before arriving in Birdsville, we will pass through one our most well-known outback towns, Broken Hill, and visit Wilpena Pound in the Flinders Ranges.
Wilpena Pound is an ancient landscape over 800 million years old, a mountain range rising out of the landscape that has the appearance of being an old volcano. It is also home to the Adnyamathanha people.
After a couple of days resting in Birdsville following our trip up the “Track” we will head towards Innamincka, a small locality that is infamous for being the end of the ill-fated Burke and Wills Exploration.
Passing back down into New South Wales though Wari Gate, we will overnight in Tibooburra and visit the family hotel where the famous Australian artist Clifton Pugh, who once painted a mural on the hotel walls. In fact, he even owned it at one time.
A favourite place we like to visit is Trilby Station. Trilby is a working sheep and cattle property on the banks of the famous inland river, the Darling River, and as usual, we will camp by the Billabong. And whilst in the area we will take the time to revisit Toorale National Park to further our knowledge of Australia’s first people.
And as we make our way back to Sydney via Narromine, Orange, and Bathurst I’m sure there will be plenty of stories to recount from our couple of weeks “Out and About with – The Landy”.
As we tour I will put up some photographs of the Australian Outback, perhaps just to whet your appetite for a visit, Downunder!
No ordinary moments, no ordinary people, no ordinary lives
“But there are men for whom the unattainable has a special attraction. Usually they are not experts; their ambitions and fantasies are strong enough to brush aside the doubts which more cautious men might have.
Determination and faith are their strongest weapons. At best such men are regarded as eccentric; at worst, mad…”
These are words penned by the legendary mountaineer, Walt Unsworth, and they have had a profound effect on me since I read them a number of years ago.
These words summed me up perfectly, I thought.
I’m sure many will be able to relate to them equally, regardless of what your pursuits are…
Over the years I have pursued a whole range of activities, some adventurous, others less so – but I have always been driven by a desire to simply embrace life…
And I have never considered myself an expert in any of them, but it has always been a fierce determination that has seen me through; a strong faith in my ability to grasp the key things, to put them into practice.
I’ve never considered anything I’ve done as a failure, but I’ve had plenty of learning experiences, set-backs that have helped me to learn, to grow, and to develop. I’m thankful for those set-backs, as they have made me stronger.
Eccentric; mad; yes, I’ve been referred in that way many times.
Today, I wear those comments proudly, like a badge.
Walt’s words have encouraged me to have the confidence to pursue my dream of climbing large mountains, to consider making an attempt on the summit of Mt Everest, in the least, to have the courage to admit that I want to climb it.
Every day on Wordspress, millions of words are written by ordinary people, stories about the challenges life has thrown at them, what they have done, and continue to do to overcome them.
About their dreams and aspirations; their highs and their lows…
Ordinary people who want to improve their fitness, to lose weight, to cycle across a city, or across the world.
Many have their sights set on a fun run, and others having completed one, setting their sights towards running a marathon.
For others, it is their challenge to become stronger, to be able to lift more, or about capturing that once in a life-time photograph, perhaps testing a new recipe to share with friends, or with people they have never met.
Others talk about health and lifestyle challenges they struggle with, that they have overcome.
I read as many of them as I can, they motivate me and they provide me with much needed inspiration…
Seemingly, there is always someone in this cyberspace community ready to reach out, to congratulate, to console…
Usually these people aren’t super-elite athletes, or neither five-star chefs, nor are they fitness gurus.
They have a much greater status than that, for they are simply ordinary people, the same people that Walt Unsworth wrote about when he penned those words…
To those who aspire to do their best, to challenge themselves, I say never give in, you’re not alone out there, dream big, and pursue your dreams…
But on ordinary people, yes I’ve referred to people as ordinary, but in reality, there is no such thing as ordinary people, we are all unique, we all contribute to the mosaic that makes up the world we live in…
It would be a boring place if we were all the same…
We’d never learn, grow, or develop as people.
Take the time to read over Walt’s musings a couple of times, because he was speaking about you…
Draw on the strength of his writing, it is powerful…
Above all else remember,
There are no ordinary moments, no ordinary people, no ordinary lives…
Isurava Village, situated along the Kokoda Track in Papua New Guinea.
I am making plans to head back into the Papuan New Guinean jungle in April next year to walk the Black Cat Track.
I tried to get there a couple of years ago, but civil unrest in the area prevented it. So plans have been made once again, and will provide a great lead in for some climbing in Nepal later in the year!
This area has some of the most pristine jungle in the world…
Travelling and photographing the Australian Outback is a great privilege that I never take for granted.
As a family we visit it often and we have a couple of spectacular desert trips planned this year, the first one coming up in a couple of months time.
Recently we upgraded our touring vehicle to a Toyota 79 Series Dual Cab that we have modified to cope with the harsh environment it will be asked to operate in. It is also capable of pulling our off-road camper Trailer, a Track TVAN.
Plenty of Storage
The Landy + TVAN
Through its paces
We’re off – to the outback
The TVAN is the go anywhere camper trailer with suspension built to military specifications.
Depending on conditions, the vehicle has a range of approximately 1,700-kilometres and all electrical equipment we require is powered by two 120-watt solar panels on the roof charging a 150-amp battery.
It is also equipped with a High Frequency radio for long-range communications. For those not familiar a HF Radio is capable of transmitting over large distances and with the right atmospheric conditions we can speak with someone thousands of kilometres away.
Now I’m not going to “rabbit” on too much here and I’ll let the photographs do the talking, but a little while back I asked for you to submit some designs for a mural to go on the vehicle and I’m pleased to showcase the final product that was inspired by a design suggested by Sassy, who writes a blog titled Sasieology…
Toyota 79 Series Dual Cab
The mural reflects the travel the vehicle will do, across the Sydney Harbour Bridge from the Sydney Opera House and into the Australian Outback.
And I hear you ask what about the Crow?
Well Charlie, he travels with us everywhere!
We captured the photographs as we put the vehicle through its paces with the TVAN in tow in the Australian Bush last weekend.
It passed with flying colours, but I’m still trying to wrest the keys back from Janet who is a rev-head at heart, especially behind the big gutsy V8 engine!
“But there are men for whom the unattainable has a special attraction. Usually they are not experts: their ambitions and fantasies are strong enough to brush aside the doubts which more cautious men might have.
Determination and faith are their strongest weapons. At best such men are regarded as eccentric; at worst, mad…” Walt Unsworth.
I’m gearing back up, slowly but surely…
Initially into the Blue Mountains, just to the west of Sydney, for some rock climbing to hone the skills and aiming for a Nepal trip to climb three 6,000 metre peaks in November.
Cho Oyu, the world’s sixth highest and one of fourteen 8,000 metre peaks, beckons in 2015…
This has been my goal for sometime I’m just one-year behind after the injuries and some personal setbacks over the past twelve months.
But I’ll be doing plenty of travel in Australia’s wonderful outback over the coming months also – so be sure to stay in touch!
And crikey, if all else fails, just remain out of control and see what develops…
TomO lead the way today heading off for his first scuba dive which he did at Clifton Gardens, on beautiful Sydney Harbour…
Despite Janet and I quite comfortably diving out of airplanes and loving water sports, we’ve never harboured the desire to scuba dive! So TomO has set a first for our family!
Another glorious start to the day on Australia’s eastern seaboard.
A 10,000 metre row on the C2 rowing machine in the pre-dawn darkness before heading to the beach for some fun with TomO, followed a breakfast of hot chips and tomato sauce; all before 8:00am…
Whoops sorry Janet, meant to say healthy muesli and yoghurt 😉
The training shed up in the backyard was in full action this morning with a 10,000-metre row to the sounds of Deep Purple at silly o’clock…
As much as I enjoy strength and weight training, I can’t expect to be a 100-kilogram gorilla and climb mountains, but the weight training has kept me going over these past few months…
Baz – A daily dose of weight bearing exercise
Hey, keep your fingers crossed that my Achilles tendon that I had surgically repaired earlier this year holds up!
And it seems to be as I start ramping up the cardio exercise and I must say it makes a pleasant change to the weight training.
As part of training for the mountains I am working towards a 100 kilometre-running race (I use the term running sparingly) through the mountains that I regularly hike and that takes place in September 2014.
And yes, that Kiwi brother-in-law of mine is hot on my heels pushing me, again!
Tongio “the Kiwi” and Baz
I’m also planning to cycle the iconic Birdsville Track in outback Australia in April 2014. It is roughly 500 kilometres in length and the aim is to ride as much as I can on my Canondale 29-er Mountain Bike.
Dream big I say, and of course, live to the motto that “those that don’t think it can be done shouldn’t bother the person doing it.”
I captured this picture of a Tawny Frog Mouth sitting in the backyard this morning. Standing tall and silent it kept a close eye on me as I clicked away.
Doesn’t it have such lovely textures that blend in so well with its environment?
There are some wonderful things to see when Out and About in the Australian Bush.
There are landscapes that stretch from horizon to horizon under a never-ending blue sky, some unique animals, and some things you need to go searching for, or you just happen to come across.
A couple of weeks ago I was bush-walking up in Yengo National Park and the lovely contrast in this little seedpod caught my eye…
A Fringed Lily – Minute and as Delicate as life itself…
Perhaps this will come as little surprise, but today we were Out and About in the Australian Bush…
TomO was having a sleep over at a friends place, although the term sleepover is used merely to highlight that he wasn’t at home with us, because if I know those boys there would have been little sleep happening.
Hell, come to think of it, the poor bloke was probably cleaning up the aftermath of the dinner party we enjoyed with the parents of TomO’s mate last night…
Now nothing ever seems to happen in our house before a cup of tea has been taken, which shouldn’t be that surprising as Janet’s father, Archie, was a tea importer, so after our mandatory cup of tea this morning we boarded The Landy, camera gear at the ready, and headed about 50-kilometres to the north of Sydney into Yengo National Park.
This park is a favourite of ours and we have spent many hours atop Devil’s Mountain watching the sun set on the the park’s western horizon, or Burragurra as it is known by Australia’s first inhabitants.
The mountain has many aboriginal rock engravings etched into its surface, including the spirit footprints of Wa-boo-ee, the creator of heaven and earth. In aboriginal legend he stepped from here to Mount Yengo in one stride and then ascended back into the sky.
Mt Yengo, Australia
All this, just to the north of Australia’s most populous city, strewth, how did we Aussies’s get so lucky?
And you know how I tend to rave on about the Australian Bush and Outback, well just take another look at the beautiful example of a Fringed Lily. They are so minute and in flower presently.
And as harsh as the Australian Bush can be it is such a fragile environment producing what can only be described as Living Works of Art…just like the Fringed Lily!
Crikey, all together now, say it!
(Big Bad) Baz, we wouldn’t wouldn’t be dead for quid’s!
We spent the past weekend touring through the Hill End region nearby to Sydney in our new Outback Touring vehicle, a Toyota 79 Series Dual Cab.
Dare I call it “The Landy”.
And it proved to be popular with the locals who mobbed it as we neared the historic gold mining town.
This was a Gold and Ghouls weekend, for it was in the early 1850s that the discovery of gold at Ophir, not too far from Hill End in the State’s Central West, that created Australia’s first gold rush.
It was almost over as quickly as it began and very few found the fortune that they came in search of, and of course those that prospered most were the people who ran the stores, supplying equipment and provisions to the miners, and the many hotels that quenched the thirst of those who were looking for the “big strike”.
Hill End, Australia
Hill End is a historic town administered by the New South Wales National Parks. There is a pub, a store, and plenty of old buildings that give a glimpse into how life might have been in those heady gold fever days. For the more energetic, there is a walk to Bald Hill where there was a lot of mining activity.
And the Royal Hotel is a great place to have a beer, or two, and a meal in the bistro.
Royal Hotel, Hill End, Australia
Leaving Sydney we travelled the Great Western Highway via Bathurst and the small township of Sofala.
We camped at Glendora campground, which is located about 1.5 kilometres from the pub and is well equipped to take caravans and camper trailers, with powered and unpowered sites available and self-registration. In fact this is a good spot for larger groups with full facilities including electric barbecues and hot showers.
There is also a campground in the centre of town, which was about half full…
Leaving Hill End on Sunday we travelled back to Bathurst via Dixon’s Long Point Road, a four-wheel drive track that winds its way down to a rocky creek crossing on the Macquarie River.
Macquarie River, AustraliaThe Landy + Tvan
“The Landy” had its first workout and performed admirably, although it was hardly taxing for the big V8-engine housed under a bonnet as big as a football field.
The views are spectacular and you can camp by the river and wile away the day under a deep blue sky…
The drive down to the river takes about one hour, depending on whether you stop along the way to visit the Cornish Roasting Pits, which we didn’t do on this particular occasion.
Travelling on you eventually come to Ophir Reserve which is located in a gorge where the Summer Hill and Lewis Creeks converge, and it was from here that the gold in the gold medals presented at 2000 Sydney Olympics was mined.
A great spot for a picnic, and it didn’t take long before TomO found a rope swing.
TomO – young and carefree…
Leaving Ophir it is less than an hour drive to Bathurst and another couple of hours back to Sydney.
And what about the Ghouls I hear you ask?
The National Park Rangers do a Ghost Tour that takes in a number of properties in Hill End and can be organised with about a week’s notice. It was uncertain whether “The Landy” would be finished in time for this trip so we thought we’d keep the ghost tour up our sleeve, giving us a reason to return again soon…
Hill End, Australia
For anyone visiting the central west of New South Wales, Hill End and a tour of the region is well worth the experience. And there is some good four-wheel driving to be done, if you are inclined. Otherwise the Dixon Long Point Road is easily traversable and will reward you with some stunning vistas of the Australian Bush…
Whilst we are Out and About in this great country of ours we love to try and use bush tucker as an additive to our foods whenever we can.
And something that is often in abundance is Saltbush Berries, which have a salty sweetness about them…and the leaves of some of the saltbush family can be boiled as a vegetable!
If you have the patience and had enough berries you could make a jam out of them, otherwise you can just stand there and eat them off the bush!
Crikey, you just got to love this place we call Australia, hey!
I’ve had a little bit of hiatus from the keyboard over the past couple of weeks and perhaps you’ve may have been thinking where’s Baz, has he gone underground or something…
Well talking about going underground, I took this photo late in the afternoon at White Cliffs, Outback Australia on one of our recent trips…
And just below the surface is the Underground Motel where we stayed in rooms fashioned out of an old mine. White Cliffs is an opal mining town, whose day time temperatures in summer can be above a ‘hundred on the old Fahrenheit scale for weeks on end and below zero at night in the depths of winter.
White Cliffs, Underground Motel
Seemingly, there is little happening on the climbing front just at the moment, even though I have recovered sufficiently from the operations earlier in the year, I’ve just lost a bit of zest for it.
Baz, Southern Alps, New Zealand
Isn’t life funny sometimes, hey!
I wanted to be on those high mountains so badly earlier this year, in fact I was scheduled to be in Nepal climbing this month, and now I’m struggling to get motivated enough to get back out there – so fingers crossed for me!
And crikey, in the meantime, it is Janet’s scones cooked in a camp oven in the Outback and TomO’s antics whilst on tour– and there’s nothing wrong with that!
The gathered crowd were anxious to witness a remarkable feat by a man and his whip and with little effort it coiled down the road accompanied by the sound of a thunderous clap.
Mind you, this was no ordinary whip, and no ordinary man who gripped its handle firmly. This is a whip measuring 66 feet in length, and weighing in at 17-kilograms.
Richard had done this a thousand times before and it made my attempt to crack a whip a fraction of its size rather feeble indeed.
The small township of Murringo, situated in the Central-West of New South Wales, was abuzz, and it was almost a carnival atmosphere as people travelled from both nearby, and further afield, to celebrate the opening of the 150 year old Hancock’s Store with owners Richard and Leah Taubman.
The sign above the small, but quaint, building proudly announced “Taubman & Webb, Trading Post – A Tribute Centre to Richard Taubman and the Late Syd Bayliss”.
The Webb part of Taubman and Webb, referring to Craig Webb, a best mate and earlier partner of Richard in a leather making business.
But the store, lovingly restored by Leah and a close family friend, Paul, over a period of two-years and supported wholeheartedly by the local community, is more than just a Trading Store, equally, it is a fine tribute to a true man of the Australian Bush, Syd Bayliss.
Syd’s story is one of a boy who served his country in the First World War after enlisting in the army at the young age of fifteen. It is a story of his passion for the timeless craft of leather plaiting, and one of a man travelling our wonderful country in search of work, of the hardships he endured, and the laughs he shared with those fortunate to meet him.
Syd was no ordinary man…
Mind you, Syd was born into a time in Australia’s past when it was hard to find any ordinary man or woman.
At 13-years of age a young Richard Taubman became entranced by Syd’s story and willingly sought him out, encouraged by his parents to learn the craft that this man of the bush had perfected so beautifully.
Despite the large age difference, Syd took Richard under his wing, becoming a mentor, and more importantly, a lifelong friend; a friendship that spanned the decades until his death in 1983.
Richard has dedicated a large part of his life to ensuring we don’t forget Syd and the men and women like him who forged a path, a tortuous one at times, for future generations of young Australians.
He has written a self-published book about Syd titled “One of The last” and ensured the story of his life is preserved for all in the Stockman’s Hall of Fame at Longreach, in Queensland.
On learning the old Hancock’s Store was for sale, Leah jumped at the opportunity to acquire it and Sunday’s grand opening was the culmination of her vision of restoring it to its former glory. It now stands proudly as a living tribute to the store that Syd owned in the town of Tumut, a tannery and saddlery store named The Valley of the Whites Trading Post, a tribute that Richard has long dreamed of doing.
And rest assured Leah has renovated Hancock’s Store true to its original form.
But it wasn’t all hard work, as Heather, the owner of the Ploughman’s Inn situated next door and now used by her as a private residence attested in a wonderful speech that she gave on behalf of the local community. She fondly recalled how the sound of country and western music serenaded her as tea and scones were served for morning tea on the verandah of the store as the restoration progressed.
Country and western music was a feature of the day with Syd’s brother-in-law, David, penning and singing a song as his own tribute to Richard.
And a highlight was witnessing Joy McKean, the wife of the late and great Slim Dusty, doing the official honour of cutting a ribbon to officially open Hancock’s Store after giving a wonderful account of her and Slim’s first meeting with Richard, and of her own childhood days of growing up, in the Australian bush.
Joy spoke about how both she and Slim where enthralled all those years ago by the passion that this young man and roustabout, Richard, held for the Australian way of life, our culture, our heritage. Something Slim and Joy wrote and sang about together to generations of Australians prior to Slim’s passing in 2003.
All Australian’s owe a great debt of gratitude to Leah for having the vision, the patience and the perseverance to bring Hancock’s Store back to its former glory. Too often we see buildings like Hancock’s Store slipping into decay in our rural towns, in our own communities, and I swear that as I walked through the store I could hear the echo of voices long gone whispering their thanks to Leah…
And I am certain that when Slim penned the song “We’ve done us proud” that he had men just like Richard, a big bloke, with a big heart, and a hat and whip just as big to match, at the forefront of his mind.
Thanks to Richard the inspiring and moving story of Syd Bayliss lives on and so does his craft through his skillful hands…
On the drive home to Sydney, back to the big smoke, I quietly reflected that for as long as we have people like Richard and Leah, visionaries with a love of the Australian Bush and of the people who have made Australia what it is today, there is little risk that our “Old Bushmen will ever die”.
Mutawintji Gorge is spectacular for its towering rusty red rock cliffs and overhangs, its magnificent rock pool, cool and soothing on a hot outback day…
We took the time to wile away the hours at the base of the cliffs, and later climbing them…an oasis in the desert, a timeless place, inhabited by an ancient people.
Rivers, creeks, and billabongs, they have a way of drawing you in, somewhat like a divining rod in search of water.
Australia has a wonderful maze of inland river systems, which, at times dry up leaving waterholes, or billabongs, as we know them…
They feature heavily in stories and poems, songs and prose, of the Australian Outback.
Recently we camped beside a billabong, nearby to the Darling River, one of Australia’s largest, which slowly meanders its way towards a confluence with the mighty Murray River at Wentworth.
Steamboats plied their trade along the river as far north as Bourke, carrying supplies to the towns that dotted the Darling, transporting wool bales back to the cities on the return trip. Of course, drought, of which there were many, could see the boats stranded for long periods of time.
This land attracted many writers, inspired by the wide open spaces of the Australian Outback, and included Henry Lawson, whom I wrote about recently, and Banjo Paterson.
The (Dusty) Road less Travelled
They are two of my favourite Australian writers.
Simply, their writings are timeless, despite both passing long-ago, you can sit by a billabong or a river and hear the echo of the men, and women, they wrote about, the friendly banter, the sorrow, the laughs, the tears, the highs and the lows.
Both men travelled extensively in some of my favourite parts of the Australian Outback.
One such place is the Barcoo River, nearby to the town of Jundah and the Welford National Park in far western-Queensland. A small town of not too many people, where the pub, owned and operated by Monica, is the go to place to hear news, a social epicentre for the area.
Parched and Dry Country
Lawson and Paterson, parched from travelling the dusty land, would have quenched their thirst at establishments just like the Jundah Pub!
Banjo Paterson was especially inspired by the Barcoo and surrounding area.
We travelled to this area to visit the site of Maggee’s Shanty and Richard Magoffin’s Grave which were not too far from Jundah and the Welford National Park. Those familiar with the writing’s of Banjo Paterson will recognise this is the place immortalised in his poem A Bush Christening.
Maggee Shanty – A Bush Christening
The grave of Richard Magoffin, who perished in 1885, is nearby.
Magoffin came to Australia from County Down in Ireland in 1853, digging for gold in Victoria and fighting at Eureka. Later he settled with a brother at Chiltern, Victoria, before moving to Bourke, where they sank dams and ran a carting business before tough times sent them further north, to Queensland.
There was very little to see of Maggee’s Shanty, although a plaque indicated its site, but Magoffin’s Grave was very well kept.
And under darkened skies, with the threat of rain present, we huddled together at the site of Maggee’s Shanty, and read…
The Bush Christening – By AB ‘Banjo’ Paterson
On the outer Barcoo where the churches are few,
And men of religion are scanty,
On a road never cross’d ‘cept by folk that are lost,
One Michael Magee had a shanty.
Now this Mike was the dad of a ten-year-old lad,
Plump, healthy, and stoutly conditioned;
He was strong as the best, but poor Mike had no rest
For the youngster had never been christened,
And his wife used to cry, “If the darlin’ should die
Saint Peter would not recognise him.”
But by luck he survived till a preacher arrived,
Who agreed straightaway to baptise him.
Now the artful young rogue, while they held their collogue,
With his ear to the keyhole was listenin’,
And he muttered in fright while his features turned white,
“What the divil and all is this christenin’?”
He was none of your dolts, he had seen them brand colts,
And it seemed to his small understanding,
If the man in the frock made him one of the flock,
It must mean something very like branding.
So away with a rush he set off for the bush,
While the tears in his eyelids they glistened-
“‘Tis outrageous,” says he, “to brand youngsters like me,
I’ll be dashed if I’ll stop to be christened!”
Like a young native dog he ran into a log,
And his father with language uncivil,
Never heeding the “praste” cried aloud in his haste,
“Come out and be christened, you divil!”
But he lay there as snug as a bug in a rug,
And his parents in vain might reprove him,
Till his reverence spoke (he was fond of a joke)
“I’ve a notion,” says he, “that’ll move him.”
“Poke a stick up the log, give the spalpeen a prog;
Poke him aisy-don’t hurt him or maim him,
‘Tis not long that he’ll stand, I’ve the water at hand,
As he rushes out this end I’ll name him.
“Here he comes, and for shame! ye’ve forgotten the name-
Is it Patsy or Michael or Dinnis?”
Here the youngster ran out, and the priest gave a shout-
“Take your chance, anyhow, wid ‘Maginnis’!”
As the howling young cub ran away to the scrub
Where he knew that pursuit would be risky,
The priest, as he fled, flung a flask at his head
That was labelled “Maginnis’s Whisky!”
And Maginnis Magee has been made a J.P.,
And the one thing he hates more than sin is
To be asked by the folk who have heard of the joke,
How he came to be christened “Maginnis”!
The Bulletin, 16 December 1893.
As a footnote, the heavens opened up as we walked back to the vehicle bringing much needed rain to the area, but turning the roads into a slippery brown sludge.
Covered in mud
The Landy, with Tvan in tow, arrived in Quilpie a few hours later covered in mud!
Such is life, but what a great day with my two favourite people…
By the Billabong with Janet and TomO (the walking hat!)
The author of a blog titled ‘tiny lessons blog’ contacted me recently and asked could she use one of my photographs for a poem she would like to write.
Of course, I told her, and she has done the photograph great justice in the way she has digitally altered the way it presents, and with the poem that the photograph inspired her to write.
The photograph was taken a number of years ago in the Simpson Desert, Outback Australia. It is the fourth largest desert in Australia and it is the world’s largest sand dune desert.
Travelling from East to West, I spent around five-days in the desert crossing about 700 sand dunes and covered around the same distance in kilometres, so a sand dune almost every kilometre.
Accompanying me on the trip was my father Brian, my mother Fay, and son TomO, who was around three-years old at the time.
It was a wonderful trip on many levels, my parents loved being taken to a place they had never travelled before, especially with their grandson. They had a passion for travel, but would never had contemplated a trip like this, and lived vicariously through the travels that I undertook with Janet… For TomO, I weaned him off his bottle on this trip, and he threw away his night-time nappy… And me, well it was great to be out with a wonderful family, although we did miss Janet, who was spending time with her sisters in the Margaret River Region of West Australia…
Please be sure to visit tiny lessons blog, where the author describes herself as a, happy beach bum, former director, active world traveller, so-so wife, mother, grandmother, and good friend. And adding, that she is not a photographer, but a pretty creative illustrator.
Thanks tiny, and to all, be sure to visit “down under” one of these days, we’d love to see you!
Australia has many outback towns that are full of charm, old buildings, magnificent pubs or watering-holes, and of course, just as many characters to fill them.
There are also some hidden gems to be found, if you scratch the surface deep enough and spend the time to fossick around, talk to the locals who might be just willing to point you in the right direction.
And you can bet there is always some healthy and good natured banter at the coming together of the city and country folk, especially if it is over a cold beer.
An Outback Pub
Broken Hill, a frontier town on the far western border of New South Wales, is one place that will need little introduction to most Australian’s. A town built on the back of silver and the hard toil of the men who worked the mines, and the women who supported them. It is the original home of the Big Australian, the Broken Hill Proprietary Company, or BHP as it later became known, and the nearby area of Silverton was the site of the Mad Max Movies starring Mel Gibson…
It also has a great pub, The Silverton Hotel!
It was with great anticipation that we drove The Landy into town a couple of weeks ago as it was the staging post for our travels into Mutawintji National Park.
Mutawintji National Park – An Ancient Land
And speaking of characters, we were able to catch up with a local resident of The Hill, a man who oozed knowledge of the area and a passion for sharing it, over a cold beer of course!
Dave Beharre was aware of a love I have of Broken Hill and the Corner Country region. Contacting me ahead of our visit, Dave offered information on places that we might find of interest, knowledge collected from the many years spent as a tour guide operating out of Broken Hill.
The Old Cobb and Co Coach Route – Broken Hill to White Cliffs
TomO, an avid reader, was thrilled to be presented with some books on the area from Dave…
Such is the way of the people of Australia’s outback, a tough, no-nonsense people, embodied with a pioneering spirit and a heart of gold…
And talking about scratching the surface and finding a gem, we visited the Living Desert Reserve just outside of town and situated on a hill that provides majestic views over the harsh, but wonderfully beautiful countryside.
Country of the Wilyakkali People who traditionally occupied the lands around Broken Hill.
The Reserve is set on 2,400 hectares of land and has a number of walking trails that you can traverse. At its centre-piece, perched atop a hill, is a number of sculptures carved from sandstone rock, around 52 tonnes of it brought in from the MacCulloch Ranges, a range situated about 250 kilometres to the east of Broken Hill.
Living Scultures
The sculptures were completed in 1993 by artists from around the world in collaboration with Australia’s first inhabitants, the aborigines.
The story of the bringing together of all these different people and cultures, sculpting by day and at night, dancing and singing by the glow of a warm fire under a sparkling outback sky, and in tongues native to their own lands, is one that portrays a spirit of human co-operation.
The sculptures include Nhatji – the Rainbow Serpent, Thomasina – the Water bird, the Bride, Motherhood, Moon Goddess, Tiwi Totems, and the Jaguar – Bajo El Sol Jaguar.
The latter, a creation of an Aztec Sculptor from Mexico.
An Endless Sky and Endless Horizon – Outback Australia
Broken Hill is more than an Outback Town, it is a living beauty, touched by sunrises whose rays reach out to breathe life into the land, and of sunsets that redden the parched, dusty ground with a brilliance that is hard to define, but awe-inspiring as the sun slips below a far-off western horizon…
Above all else, “The Hill” is a town full of endearing people – they are the real gems that you will find there!
Seemingly, our land down under is cursed with the world’s largest population of flies. They tickle your nostrils, gather on your back, shelter in your ears and heaven forbid, get swallowed with every breathe you take, well almost…
And here is the thing, where do they go at the end of each day, you know, the sun goes down and they disappear faster than Wally when it is his shout down at the local footy club.
It is like in an instant, the sun slips below the horizon and it is pure bliss, well at least for five minutes, which is usually the time it takes to go and find a light to put on. Strewth, flick the switch and some weird and wonderful bugs appear out of no-where…
It had me thinking on this trip, yes I did have a couple of beers, so the mind was fluid, but I mean, did the bugs clock-on when the flies clocked-off?
Or was it a case of the same horse, just different eyebrows, and in fact it was just the flies dressed up. Lets’ face it, they had the time, cause if I said it took me five minutes to get out a light, it was probably ten minutes by the time I finished my beer, had another, and then flicked the light, so they had time!
Janet has just asked me where I’m heading with this, which is just as well because I’m not really sure…
But anyway, you can either put up with the little blighters, wave your hand around your face from time to time, pretend you didn’t really swallow one or two, or you can grab a fly net and whack it over your head.
TomO and I have generally opted for the viewpoint that they are a source of protein, and casually ignore the fact they have probably spent the last hour or so sunning themselves on a cow patty, or you can go the Janet option and grab a veil.
Isnapped this photo of Janet, with fly veil at the ready, whilst Out and About last week, and I’ve been fascinated by the look on her face – what was she thinking…?
So I invite you to put a caption on the photo…over to you!
We are not long back from the Australian Outback and planning is underway for a couple of trips next year, already!
We were travelling in “The Landy” our original Outback travelling machine, although we did take delivery of the new vehicle just before leaving for the big sky and red soil country…
Prior to leaving I was inviting you to send a design for a muralthat will go on the side of the canopy of the new vehicle and I was also asking you to suggest some names for the new vehicle.
Camp Fire by the Billabong – Outback Australia
I’m pleased to say that after a few beers and wines around the camp-fire we have a winner. In fact, the winner was a clear stand-out, and was produced by Sassy who has a wonderful blog called Sasieology…
In her bio, Sassy writes that she has made a promise to visit at least one new place and try at least one new activity every year…
I’m yet to see Australia turn up on her blog, but perhaps she’ll visit wearing her new Akubra hat one day!
Strewth, not sure how we’ll find her a good feed out in the “beef” country we frequently visit though as she is a self-confessed plant-based vegetarian.
And hey, don’t you go misreading me here, nothing wrong with that…if you’re a rabbit
But, do baked beans count? We love baked bean jaffles on our travels…
Whilst we have modified the original design that Sassy sketched, she fully captured the essence of what we were looking for, perfectly!
A mural that depicts a vehicle that will cross the Sydney Harbour Bridge in full view of the Sydney Opera House and the magnificent Sydney Harbour most days, but equally, be at home in the red ochre deserts of the Australian Outback.
The Old Cobb & Co Stage Coach Route – Broken Hill to White Cliffs
That is the work this vehicle will be put to, much the same as “The Original Landy”.
Just a sec, Janet is asking have I sold “The Landy” in order to pay for the new one…
“Yes, working on it sweetie” 😉
Anyway, let’s not get bogged down in a small domestic issue here, so Sassy, we’ll be sending you…
An original Akubra Outback Club Hat,
A jar of our prized Australian vegemite,
Two packets of Tim Tams (you’ll love these!), and
A bottle of our famous Bundy Rum.
And that brings us to the determination of a winner for a name.
Despite receiving many suggestions, we could not agree on one, preferring to leave the new vehicle simply as “The Landy”.
We placed the name of all who participated into an Akubra Hat, yes mine, and pulled out a winner, Nancy, who has a blog titled My Year of Sweat.
I’m betting she’ll love those Tim Tams and with all the exercise she’s be doing, knocking off a couple of packets of our delicious Tim Tams won’t be a problem. And I’m betting the rum will go down well.
So please make direct contact so I can arrange to send you the following goodies…
A jar of our prized Australian vegemite,
Two packets of Tim Tams (you’ll love these!), and
A bottle of our famous Bundy Rum
And don’t tell Janet, but after a couple of beers around the fire I thought what is another Akubra Outback Club Hat between bank balances…
After all the cost of this vehicle makes the United States National Debt look healthy…
The “New” Landy
So not only will I be sending you some of our favourite Aussie tucker, we’ll get you to size up for a hat as well…
Hey, keep an eye out for those big sky country photos, we took heaps!
And by the way, thanks to everyone for having a go, because for sure, that is the Aussie Way…
Being an avid reader of colloquial poetry I welcomed the opportunity to once again be out in the countryside that inspired the great Australian Poet, Henry Lawson…
For those not familiar, Henry Lawson was a poet, a writer of fiction, and many will argue, Australia’s greatest writer.
Earlier this year we packed ourselves into “The Landy” and headed to Grenfell, his birthplace in the Central West of New South Wales, to attend the Henry Lawson festival, as well as just getting Out and About – of course!
On our most recent trip to the outback we visited Toorale Station which was a vast sheep and cattle property before its purchase by the Federal Government in 2008 and development into a National Park in 2010.
The purchase of the property did have political overtones, and was done, in part, to release water that was used for cotton growing back to the river systems.
At the time it drew a mixed response, but that is a debate for others…
Toorale had at its centre, a magnificent homestead, with a glass ceiling ball-room, sprawling verandahs, wonderful gardens and hand-painted wall paper.
Standing at the gate, my mind’s eye could picture a by-gone area, of women in long-white dresses sipping tea from delicate porcelain china, shaded by the afternoon sun by one of the many trees in the manicured garden, while men toiled on the land..
Toorale Homestead, Outback Australia
Janet, with a sly grin, casually mentioned how things had changed whilst casting an eye towards TomO and I…
Set at the confluence of the Warrego and Darling Rivers it remains a place of cultural significance to Australia’s first people, specifically the traditional owners, the Kurnu-Baakandji / Paakantji People.
Ross Morris, Toorale Homestead
Ross Morris, a member of the Kurnu-Baakandji / Paakantji family, showed us around and was enthusiastic about the opportunities ahead for the park, especially the cultural centre, which is teaching their traditional language, heritage and beliefs to younger members of their community.
In fact, it is now a language module offered at the local school in the nearby town of Bourke…
Ross spoke fondly of the time his father and grandfather spent on Toorale, and of the original owner, Samuel McCaughey, later Sir Samuel.
And it was Ross’s proclamation that it is no longer Black and White, a nice pun I thought, when he explained that we all have a bond to Toorale, whether through traditional ownership, or the heritage created by earlier settlers to the region.
His attitude brought a smile to my parched lips, as I love learning about aboriginal culture and history, something TomO shares in common with me…
Ross’s viewpoint was also echoed by other first Australians’ we spent time with on this trip, on our visit to Mutawintji and Peery Lake.
Samuel McCaughey was by all accounts a big-hearted bachelor and built Toorale for his much admired niece, Louisa, but tragically corporate ownership of the property in more recent times saw it decay and it is currently very dilapidated and in need of substantial repairs.
Toorale Homestead, Outback Australia
Janet and I asked each other how could such a treasure be left to ruin in the elements, Ross shook his head…
But what of Henry Lawson I hear you ask?
Henry spent the later part of 1892 working as a roustabout on the property and it has even been suggested that he penned one of his poems “When the Ladies Come to the Shearing Shed” whilst working in the shearing shed on Toorale…
The Old Shearing Shed, Toorale Station, Outback Australia
Perhaps he did, but I cannot say that was the case with any certainty, but nor does it matter, as the “Toorale Shearing Shed” is typical of shearing sheds all over this great country of ours…
TomO, Janet and I were presented with a great treat whilst admiring the shearing shed.
A lady who was travelling with us on this particular day, Janice, stood in front of the shed and recited, with great aplomb…
“When the Ladies Come to the Shearing Shed” – By Henry Lawson
‘THE LADIES are coming,’ the super says To the shearers sweltering there, And ‘the ladies’ means in the shearing shed: ‘Don’t cut ’em too bad. Don’t swear.’ The ghost of a pause in the shed’s rough heart, And lower is bowed each head; And nothing is heard, save a whispered word, And the roar of the shearing-shed.
The tall, shy rouser has lost his wits, And his limbs are all astray; He leaves a fleece on the shearing-board, And his broom in the shearer’s way. There’s a curse in store for that jackaroo As down by the wall he slants— And the ringer bends with his legs askew And wishes he’d ‘patched them pants.’
They are girls from the city. (Our hearts rebel As we squint at their dainty feet.) And they gush and say in a girly way That ‘the dear little lambs’ are ‘sweet.’ And Bill, the ringer, who’d scorn the use Of a childish word like ‘damn,’ Would give a pound that his tongue were loose As he tackles a lively lamb.
Swift thoughts of homes in the coastal towns— Or rivers and waving grass— And a weight on our hearts that we cannot define That comes as the ladies pass. But the rouser ventures a nervous dig In the ribs of the next to him; And Barcoo says to his pen-mate: ‘Twig ‘The style of the last un, Jim.’
Jim Moonlight gives her a careless glance— Then he catches his breath with pain— His strong hand shakes and the sunlights dance As he bends to his work again. But he’s well disguised in a bristling beard, Bronzed skin, and his shearer’s dress; And whatever Jim Moonlight hoped or feared Were hard for his mates to guess.
Jim Moonlight, wiping his broad, white brow, Explains, with a doleful smile: ‘A stitch in the side,’ and ‘he’s all right now’— But he leans on the beam awhile, And gazes out in the blazing noon On the clearing, brown and bare— She has come and gone, like a breath of June, In December’s heat and glare.
The bushmen are big rough boys at the best, With hearts of a larger growth; But they hide those hearts with a brutal jest, And the pain with a reckless oath. Though the Bills and Jims of the bush-bard sing Of their life loves, lost or dead, The love of a girl is a sacred thing Not voiced in a shearing-shed.
Have you ever wondered what it is like to stay in an underground motel, a room dug into a side of a hill?
Tonight our accommodation is the Underground Motel at White Cliffs in far-western New South Wales.
TomO and I have been frequent visitors over the years, stopping off on our way to and from the Outback, but seemingly, Janet has never been on those trips, so tonight is a first for her.
And what a welcome sight the reception was, standing tall on Smith’s Hill, about the only hill in sight for a hundred or so miles, well not quite, but the landscape is very flat and barren.
We have spent the past three days in Mutawinji National Park undertaking a number of walks through the magnificent gorges set in the rugged and fiery red Byngnano Range. And the wildlife was beautiful…
Kangaroo – Mutawintji NP
Mutawintji is the tribal area of the Makyankapa and Pandjikali people.
Aboriginal people have lived and hunted in this area for thousands of years and during our stay in the park we spent time with an aboriginal elder who took us to view some rock art and engravings of great significance to his people.
Mutawintji Hand Painting
Mark shared the love of his land, his people, his culture with great passion and enthusiasm and we look forward to meeting up with him once again in the future, to share the experience of this great land together…
We left Sydney a couple of days ago in “The Landy” heading west for a tour of Mutawinji National Park and Outback New South Wales.
Our trip to Mutawinji National Park in far western New South Wales, and Trilby Station, situated on the Darling River, will give us some great exposure to Australian Outback Landscapes.
Mutwawinji NP is about 130-kilometres to the north of Broken Hill and situated in the Bynguano Range.
Apart from the natural beauty of the park, with its many gorges, rock-pools, and red gum lined creek beds, it is of great significance to aboriginal people who have been visiting the area for thousands of years to avail themselves of the food and water. The area has also been used for ceremonial reasons and still is to this day.
Throughout the park there are many examples of rock engravings, stencils and paintings. This is one of the park’s great attractions and we will endeavour to see as much as we can, which is usually done with the guidance of the Park Rangers.
After a few nights in the park we will head east towards White Cliffs, a town renowned for its opals and the many “characters” that come to mine the prized stones and we will stay in an underground motel, just for the experience!
After freshening up following a few days in the bush, we will leave for Trilby Station, a working sheep and cattle property on the banks of the famous inland river, the Darling River. A favourite of ours, we will camp by the Billabong and engross ourselves in very little, just taking in the atmosphere of the outback.
Kangaroos, Trilby Station, Outback Australia
We’ll have a few days of relaxation before leaving Trilby and travelling via the small locality of Louth, making our way towards Narromine for our final night of the trip.
Of course, all trips come to an end, and as we make our way back to Sydney on our final day, passing through the towns of Orange and Bathurst, I’m sure there will be plenty of stories and experiences to recount from our couple of weeks “Out and About in The Landy”.
And be sure to keep an eye out for some pictures of our tours over the coming week, hopefully we can capture the beauty of our magnificent outback on camera…
Xplore 